However, what typically happens is that, as a vine gets older it produces fewer grapes each year. This means less wine can be made (which can be bad for availability). Yet, each grape on these older vines will be more concentrated, gaining in flavor and intensity. Think of some of the older people in your life. They may not move as fast or do as much as they once did, but they usually have wisdom and experiences that they can impart that add tremendously to whatever they touch.

An old vine will still suck up plenty of water, minerals and flavors from the soil, but now it has fewer grapes to give all that good stuff to. This is why the grapes grown on old vines are often more concentrated.

Generally speaking: The older the vine means the fewer the grapes means the higher the quality. Or, perhaps more succinctly: less is more when the number of grapes is concerned.

Eventually, a vine will get to an age where it will simply stop producing fruit, or produce too little to realistically make wine. This is why wineries, chateaux and grape growers need to replant their fields on a rotating basis.

As I mentioned, there are plenty of exceptions to these rules. Some older people get so crabby and crotchety that they just aren't any fun to be around. Likewise, some old vines produce grapes that seem to take too much from the soil and get really funky and difficult to drink. Others start making weaker wine, kinda like their cholesterol levels are too high and arteries to the grapes are blocked.

But in my opinion, this is what makes wine fun. This is why it's great to try different varietals, and different wine made from old vines. Sure, there are a couple sour pusses out there, but there's plenty of reason to respect the elderly.

The following article was first sent to WoW subscribers 16 September 2001

In a world where youth is celebrated and things old are too often ignored for their contributions, the designation "old vines" can be found on many a wine label as a good thing. Most often appearing on red wine bottles (California Zinfandels are really promoting their age), "old vines" is used as positive marketing. Why? Doesn't "Young, virile vines" sound better? Not necessarily.

As are most things in the world of wine, the age of vines can both be good and bad at any stage, and is by no means black and white. In fact, vines can be compared with people, and just like people, there are always plenty of exceptions to disprove the rules. Also just like people, "old" is a relative term. Some advertise their gnarled vines as being "old" at the sprightly age of 50. Others wait until the vines celebrate their 75th or even 100th birthday.

When a vine is very young, it's like a small child. It grows fast, and starts producing after only a few years, but the fruit it makes isn't usually all that spectacular. Think of it this way: Sure, your three-year-old may draw, and you'll definitely hang her/his art on your refrigerator with pride, but it won't be winning awards from the MOMA.

Likewise, a vine can produce fruit at age three, but it too will rarely be great wine. It may show promise (like your child), and will have interesting characteristics, but probably won't be winning gold medals at the Los Angeles County Fair.

As a vine gets older it continues to improve, and the wine it makes (hopefully) becomes more flavorful, expressive and complex. How long this period of good yields (a lot of grapes produced) combined with good fruit lasts is dependent on the care of the vineyard, the soil and the weather (among other factors). It can be anywhere from 30 years to 75 or many more.