While it can be near purple and heavy when hailing from high altitudes in Ribera del Duero, it can also be lighter and more food friendly, such as roja de Rioja. That's what you've got here.

The nose is high in spice, oak and brambly, dusty cherry. It doesn't grab you by the shirt and tell you that you must leave your family and see the world with it. It's much more subtle, giving sexy looks from across the room and letting you come to that conclusion on your own.

On the palate, the fruit is almost all cherry, with a touch of cranberry to make it a little tart. (Hey, you wouldn't' run away with a prude, would you?) There's still a lot of oak there, too. In fact, this wine has more wood than cherry. (Given the context of this review, do with that sentence what you will.)

I know that some of you saw the vintage of this wine and thought, "Yeah, what a perfect wine for the summer of 1996!" Relax and take comfort in: A) the knowledge that Nicole got a fat (or is that "phat") divorce settlement; and B) there being plenty of this wine on the market right now.

Remember that Spanish wines marked "Gran Reserva" are aged in oak and bottle the longest prior to release (at least until December of its fifth year). The fact that I'm seeing so much of this wine in stores means that either it was held longer than that, or people just don't know to snatch it up.

Don't make the same mistake. If you're having pork (the other white meat) or tofu (the white other meat) on a hot summer night sometime soon, have this on hand. Just be sure to keep it in the open with your spouse.

Salud,
TSW

Last week I told Wilder on Wine (WoW) subscribers about the direct relationship between warm weather and white wine consumption: As one increases, so too does the other.

Sadly, that only works in one direction. Otherwise, going through a couple bottles of viognier during the winter months could get us back into our bathing suits for a New Year's pool party.

But I know that some of you have a rather exclusive relationship with red wine, and no amount of heat and/or humidity will break you from your monogamy.

Far be it from me to play the part of homewrecker. What do I look like, Penelope Cruz?

For the record, I don't, but this red wine is a lot like Ms. Cruz: Great body, but a bit small (or light); alluring and pretty, but not very deep; and absolutely Spanish.

OK, that review reads only slightly warmer than that which most critics give Penelope for her acting. I certainly don't mean it that way. This is a very good wine; it's just that it's made in an older, smoother style than you might be used to if you're a California cab cultist or minion of monster merlots. That's what makes it perfect for hot summer afternoons.

Tempranillo is Spain's most planted grape, and is amazingly diverse.